Here's how I put together my latest set of swords for SCA heavy florentine (two-sword)
These are pretty long swords, in fact they are almost longsword (bastard sword) length.
I was aiming for something along the lines of the albion poitiers XV style sword in terms of length, weight and balance.
The final measurements are:
overall length : 105cm
blade length 84cm
center of balance 4.5cm from cross
overall weight 1.1kg
Parts required:
1.25" diameter rattan approx 1m length
square Cross aluminium 0.75 pounds
Wheel pommel pewter 0.8 pounds
silver duct tape or white hockey stick tape
black blade tape or black hockey stick tape
glass fibre tape
tennis racket grip tape
quick grip glue
high density closed cell foam
Tools required:
spoke shave
angle grinder
clamps
drill
file
mallet/hammer
NOTE: I took the photos after the majority of the work was done, so some of the photos are actually of a different piece of rattan, different cross or pommel.
- sword shape
Ideally the rattan is already at around 1.25" diameter with the skin on (for strength and durability). If it's not, we will generally shave down the sides (not the blade) to lighten the rattan, and give it a more sword-like shape. Use a spoke shave, or plane, or angle grinder can work too. Make sure your cross will actually fit on the rattan.
- grip
I based the grip on my synthetic waster from cold steel. Which is tapered towards the pommel, but flat in profile; with a thin center indicator raised section. The pommel is similar too.
Place your cross on the sword and mark out where the grip will be, as well as the cross. Use the angle grinder to make the grip shaped like the pictures below. Leave a short section for the pommel to attach to.
- pommel
The pommels I got had a rounded shape, but I wanted to make sure that the pommel wouldn't twist on the sword. The idea is to square out the hole in the pommel. I used the file on the sides so that there were large notches in either side. I then made the corresponding shape on the rattan end, so that when the pommel is placed on the stick, it can't twist at all. After a small pilot hole is drilled, the pommel can then screw into the end, and won't move at all.
- cross
The cross was also a round shape, and it's even more important that it doesn't twist. I used the file to make the blade edge sides flat. I also flattened the blade sides on the rattan, where the cross would sit. This way, with a small wedge of wood jammed between the cross and the stick, where the flat sections are; the cross would be held in place. I added some glue in the gaps to help hold it all in place, and covered it all with duct tape so I didn't get glue everywhere. I then left it to dry overnight
- tape
A single layer of silver duct tape is then wrapped around the blade, followed by thin, black blade tape.
I used black tennis racket grip tape on the grip. It tends to help grip the sword, and provides a small amount of shock absorption.
- thrusting tip
In this photo, I've tried to glue a fourth disc on the outside, to help prevent thrusts from slipping (due to the tape surface), (which you can see duct tape to help the gluing process). This doesn't work very well though, as the glue I used doesn't stick to the fibre tape.
As you can see from the last picture, my gauntlet fits almost exactly between the pommel and cross. My hand has some room to move within the gauntlet and on the grip however.
We've since bought some hockey stick tape, and retaped our swords with it instead of duct tape. I went for a spiraled taping, giving two layers of tape total.
I've gone for a white sword with black edge, while gib has gone for the reverse colour scheme.
We've since bought some hockey stick tape, and retaped our swords with it instead of duct tape. I went for a spiraled taping, giving two layers of tape total.
I think the thrusting tips will last a bit longer, as well as being better looking IMHO. The hockey stick tape has a much rougher surface, so it thrusts should slip a lot less.
I've gone for a white sword with black edge, while gib has gone for the reverse colour scheme.
