House Reverie SCA

Friday, October 28, 2011

"you must be able to throw everything with both hands"

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Constructing an 11th (ish) century sword

One aspect of the SCA that is rarely documented is the construction of our training/sport replica swords. This is probably related to a couple of factors,
firstly a lot of people put relatively little effort into constructing a sword (as compared to say armour).
secondly it is a very personal affair with a lot of varying opinions on what is good and works well.
finally it is often learnt off someone else and one might assume that person has published their construction techniques but this is usually not the case.
While there are some excellent guides floating around I have just finished constructing some as close to the real thing as practical swords and thought I'd post some tips as a result.

Firstly, choose a sword. Most people tend to use the approach of just long enough to comfortably touch the ground, 1"4 thick, whatever hand protection you prefer.

One big problem in the SCA is callibration, and that in part comes down to not being able to use real swords against real armour. Although such an activity would obviously be life threatening, we should still try to make every effort to get as close to accurate as possible. With that in mind I decided to try a slightly different approach and use a particular reference sword as guidance for as many parameters as possible. I choose to use this http://www.albion-swords.com/swords/albion/nextgen/sword-medieval-hospitaller-xa.htm for inspiration. Albion make some neat swords, in some cases are direct replicas of actual swords, or inspired items such as the hospitaller which has drawn inspiration from several period sources. I selected the Hospitaller sword predominately because it represents a lot of what the SCA is about. There is little specific information on 11th century weapons and so we make a best guess drawing on various sources from the period. This type of sword was likely used against people in something akin to SCA assumed armour and on foot.

The other nice thing about Albion is that all useful statistics on the construction are listed (shamelessy copied below) which provides us with an excellent point of reference for creating a sword rather than just 'a look':

Specifications
Total length: 40" (102 cm)
Blade length: 33.75" (86 cm)
Blade width: 1.88" (4.8 cm)
CoG: 5.25" (13 cm)
CoP: 22" (56 cm)
Weight: 2 lbs 10.2 oz (1.2 kilos)

The first thing that amazed me about these numbers was the total length. All my previous swords have been between 75 and 85cm long in total which I thought was quite long. I am 6'2" and 85cm is on the high end of the commonly touted 'long enough to touch the ground comfortably', with a hospitaller with my arms by my sides it rests on the ground approximately 1 foot infront of me.

Secondly the balance point of these swords is around 5inches from the cross. Anyone in the SCA has probably heard every different opinion on balance points so having some specific information here is very interesting. My previous swords balanced around 8inches from the hilt (which was over half way up the blade). I have picked up swords with metal caged basket hilts that balanced at the hilt and some swords which use pewter counter balances that balance at the grip. The balance point is integral in defining how readily the sword can be rotated upon itself (torques) which is a key movement in our fighting style.

Finally the total weight is only 1.2 Kilos. This pretty much rules out any sort of metal basket hilt that I have tried (although you can argue metal gauntlets add just as much anyway) and most counter weight systems.

Construction:

So now I have a clear idea in mind for my new swords I set about construction. The first step is to find some rattan, my sword is straight.. so that was easy. Measuring previous efforts it was clear some minimum thickness rattan wouldn't do to get to the 1.2kilo point so I found some 1.5inch diameter lengths.
Each sword was measured up according to Albions stats and marked out. Rather than purchase pommels I opted to increase the total length of the sword slightly and use that as the pommel leaving the possibility of buttspikes if I want try them out while keeping the balance point right.

The sides are planed down in a tapering fashion from almost no shaving 1.5inch to 1.25inch at the tip.

The next process is one of the more important and often overlooked components, the grip. Making a grip based on albion was challenging given the images, however a plastic training sword was used to get some numbers down. In the end my grip is 40cm at the top and 3cm at the smallest. The grip is 3cm thick. This is done predominately using an angle grinder with a general purpose wheel. I start by making deep cuts to get to the right depths less a fraction so that I can finish the grip without compromising strength. with a finish just using 80grit then 400 grit sandpaper.

I mount the cross next which is still a work in progress. I recently acquired some windrose armory pewter crosses. Firstly I built the rattan up to thickness using hockey strapping tape such that the cross only just slid into position (5 loops). By drilling through the side, a cut down bolt can be used to fasten the cross to the sword.

Next a layer of packing tape (which is clear and has small fibres embedded, 3m product number XXXX) is carefully woven around the blade. This is important as it stops the rattan ever being exposed after damage (which will occur). This both improves the longevity of your swords and makes it a simple matter to repair by adding more surface covering.
The surface covering is hockey strapping tape which was sourced from XXX. It is great because it is slightly lighter while being as durable as duct tape. I also think it looks better ;).

The grip can now be covered. I use tennis racket grip tape which can be had for 3$ for a pack of 3, but there are many similar products that could be used instead. It is important to make sure the finish is good because roughness under the grip tape will come through and both deteriorate the tape faster and be less comfortable. The tape is simply wound around tightly and affixed to the sword with hockey strapping tape. I put a slice of leather under the gripping tape at the point where my index and ring fingers grip to give a textural feel which aids in keeping the sword gripped in the right location without having to look down and check. For these swords I opted for yet another loop of hockey strapping tape for something different.

Finally I put the thrusting tip on which is 4 pieces of 1/4 inch closed cell foam (on the harder side) wrapped up by, you guessed it, hockey strapping tape. Even if you choose to use duct tape for your swords, I would recommend this approach to thrusting tips as I am notorious for breaking the things, and I haven't managed to break this design yet. The hockey tape keeps the thrusting tip flexible even after repeated use.

Summary:

After completing my swords the first thing that struck me was the accuracy of the numbers to the original reference sword. My SCA legal swords are 1.2 kilos each, have a balance point around 5 inches from the cross, have a blade that is 86cm and a grip that is 16cm. The most important factor I think in getting close to realistic sword specs, is to use thick rattan. 1.5inch is definately a good place to start, not only does the total weight come out close but you wont suffer from 'whippy' swords that move fast but will have opponents calling lights due to the rattan flexing. I have also found that the Windrose pommels are good in pewter, but for even better weighting, aluminium cross and pommel might be better and will be the next design I try.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

sword construction articles

Swordbrother.com : SCA : A Good sword

Custom Furniture Framingham, Robert Karl Woodworking Blog

SCA combat video from 1978

http://history.westkingdom.org/Year13/Video/JuneCrown.htm

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Some articles on sca heavy combat

armoured vs unarmoured training

frozen man quarter speed is a kind of slow unarmoured training, where you train to complete a blow. As opposed to every blow being blocked, as is normally the case for quarter speed training.

hints from brandywine

oldcastle sword and shield

on being a new fighter

Bladeswift

polearms

sword and shield manual

heavy combat for short people

primer on defense

everything SCA combat

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Single Sword construction

Here's how I put together my latest set of swords for SCA heavy florentine (two-sword)

These are pretty long swords, in fact they are almost longsword (bastard sword) length.

I was aiming for something along the lines of the albion poitiers XV style sword in terms of length, weight and balance.

The final measurements are:

overall length : 105cm

blade length 84cm

center of balance 4.5cm from cross

overall weight 1.1kg

Parts required:

1.25" diameter rattan approx 1m length

square Cross aluminium 0.75 pounds

Wheel pommel pewter 0.8 pounds

silver duct tape or white hockey stick tape

black blade tape or black hockey stick tape

glass fibre tape

tennis racket grip tape

quick grip glue

high density closed cell foam

Tools required:

spoke shave

angle grinder

clamps

drill

file

mallet/hammer

NOTE: I took the photos after the majority of the work was done, so some of the photos are actually of a different piece of rattan, different cross or pommel.

sword shape

Ideally the rattan is already at around 1.25" diameter with the skin on (for strength and durability). If it's not, we will generally shave down the sides (not the blade) to lighten the rattan, and give it a more sword-like shape. Use a spoke shave, or plane, or angle grinder can work too. Make sure your cross will actually fit on the rattan.

grip

I based the grip on my synthetic waster from cold steel. Which is tapered towards the pommel, but flat in profile; with a thin center indicator raised section. The pommel is similar too.

Place your cross on the sword and mark out where the grip will be, as well as the cross. Use the angle grinder to make the grip shaped like the pictures below. Leave a short section for the pommel to attach to.

pommel

The pommels I got had a rounded shape, but I wanted to make sure that the pommel wouldn't twist on the sword. The idea is to square out the hole in the pommel. I used the file on the sides so that there were large notches in either side. I then made the corresponding shape on the rattan end, so that when the pommel is placed on the stick, it can't twist at all. After a small pilot hole is drilled, the pommel can then screw into the end, and won't move at all.

cross

The cross was also a round shape, and it's even more important that it doesn't twist. I used the file to make the blade edge sides flat. I also flattened the blade sides on the rattan, where the cross would sit. This way, with a small wedge of wood jammed between the cross and the stick, where the flat sections are; the cross would be held in place. I added some glue in the gaps to help hold it all in place, and covered it all with duct tape so I didn't get glue everywhere. I then left it to dry overnight

tape

I cover the blade in one layer of fibre tape, twisting around the stick. I added an extra lengthwise strip to the blade edge.

A single layer of silver duct tape is then wrapped around the blade, followed by thin, black blade tape.

I used black tennis racket grip tape on the grip. It tends to help grip the sword, and provides a small amount of shock absorption.

thrusting tip

I cut three discs of high density closed cell foam, slightly larger in diameter than the rattan, and tape it to the end of the stick with fibre tape. These low-profile thrusting tips only last about 3 training sessions, but they're easy to tape back on; and they weigh almost nothing.
In this photo, I've tried to glue a fourth disc on the outside, to help prevent thrusts from slipping (due to the tape surface), (which you can see duct tape to help the gluing process). This doesn't work very well though, as the glue I used doesn't stick to the fibre tape.

As you can see from the last picture, my gauntlet fits almost exactly between the pommel and cross. My hand has some room to move within the gauntlet and on the grip however.

We've since bought some hockey stick tape, and retaped our swords with it instead of duct tape. I went for a spiraled taping, giving two layers of tape total.

I think the thrusting tips will last a bit longer, as well as being better looking IMHO. The hockey stick tape has a much rougher surface, so it thrusts should slip a lot less.

I've gone for a white sword with black edge, while gib has gone for the reverse colour scheme.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

interesting SCA equipment